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bjmarshall
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Posts: 1
(7/25/03 4:03 am)
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make up my mind possibly?
Hello all my name is Bill. I just have a question for ya about what your opinions are on tow vehicles. I am trying to get a 369rbhs-5? I think them are the correct numbers. I really love the ford f350 with the 6.0 ltr srw 4dr. But everything i have seen on other forums is the duramax with allison tranny. Ford just came out with their new tranny also I was just wondering if it was comparable or just another factory hyped up tranny? I am very flexible with the vehicles i have owned all 3 major brands a 90 chev 94 ford and a 98 dodge all half tons. I have had no problems with any of them so i am not partial really to any one. Any opinions could be useful and thanks alot. Also is it gonna be a real problem for me to get a short box instead of long box?? I like the looks of the short box a heck of a lot better.

Merry
Member
Posts: 15
(7/25/03 7:47 pm)
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Re: make up my mind possibly?
I know next to nothing about trucks so I can't really help you! I know others on this board can, so just wait and they will be checking in :)

Open Road 298 RLS

AlbertaBear
Member
Posts: 23
(7/26/03 1:06 am)
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Re: make up my mind possibly?
Bill

This is quite a 5er you are looking at, two bathrooms & bunkbeds.

Your pinweight is 1940# and load capacity 3600#. This will help you decide how much truck you need. I think either one of the big 3 in a one ton will be enough truck. All of them will offer a one ton in either a DRW or SRW configuration. GM just announced they will offer this in an 04. Many people say DRW will feel better when pulling, but some do not agree with this statement. Will you use your truck for winter driving??, a SRW will be more surfooted than a DRW in snow. All of them have their fans and these trucks are all so much better than trucks of yore. A tow/haul mode is also included on all three,(with the automatics), Dodge just added this on the 04. Ford & GM both have a 5 speed auto, the Dodge uses a 4 speed. Do you need an auto or would a 6 speed be a consideration? Then a Dodge/Cummins would be hard to overlook. I guess a diesel is what you plan to buy. Personally think a long box will allways tow better than a short box. Try to drive all of them equipped like you would have yours. Ideally weighed down, but that might be difficult. Check out the back seat and figure out which one suits you. Don't make this the only deciding factor though. They all have their strong points. Talk to lots of other people who have either one of your alternatives.

Enjoy the process and keep us informed.


Bjorn & Laurie

2000 Dodge CTD HO QC LB 2WD 6speed
2004 Open Road 321 RBHS TT, loaded
2004 Dodge CTD HO QC LB 2WD 6speed, ordered June 18

bjmarshall
Member
Posts: 2
(7/26/03 1:55 am)
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Re: make up my mind possibly?
Hello bjorn thank you for your reply.
Yes i will be driving about 6 mo out of the year in snow(hense the bunks w/ 2 bathrooms for all snowmobiling buddies) But my wife and i both like the Ford one ton and also that truck will be a everyday driver also another reason i dont want a duelly. I was always inline with getting the ford diesel; woundnt mind the dodge, but like the ford better- my opinion i think that the ford diesel and cummins bout the same engine. But everything that i have heard lately about the new chevy duramax with allison tranny is just a dream compared to either of the other 2 makes. Also i would rather have the auto since it will be a vehicle for the wife to drive.

larryone
Member
Posts: 17
(7/26/03 6:21 pm)
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truck
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AlbertaBear
Member
Posts: 26
(7/27/03 9:54 pm)
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Re: truck
Bill

Bunkbeds for your buddies???

I have this rear bunkbed setup, but I don't know if a couple of 200-225 lbs buddies will fit in there. The top one is only 29" wide, the bottom is 39".

I fell asleep up there a while back, after I read my 4 year old her nighttime story, a bit tight getting out of there.

Other than that, great units.

Try all 3 of the trucks, please. Then tell us what you bought.

Only one of the diesels is rated medium duty, the other two are light duty.

Bjorn

bjmarshall
Member
Posts: 3
(7/27/03 10:04 pm)
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Re: truck
Hey bjorn ty for your reply again im sure my buddies (their weight is medium i guess bout 160-200) will definately sleep in the bunks rather than -20 below in a tent. I definately will be the one on the queen bed me bout 220 on a good day. My 2 year old will like the bunks also. I guess most of the reason I am replying is i dont understand the diesels being light duty and medium duty?? Never heard of that? Can you expand on that? And which one is medium?

AlbertaBear
Member
Posts: 27
(7/28/03 1:15 am)
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Re: truck
Hi Bill

The life expectancy prior to major service/rebuild is 300000miles on a Cummins, 200000 on the other two.

This fact is recognized by the big 3.

A Dodge/Cummins turned 1000000miles (one million) a few months back. Daily driver for some guy delivering trailers

I think you will find many more high milage Cummins than the other two. This engine has been around for many years in many applications, Dodge got them in 89. Over one million of them have been supplied to date. The others cannot say that, their engines are newer (younger).

Bjorn

Jerry Peck
Member
Posts: 7
(7/30/03 6:32 pm)
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Re: make up my mind possibly?
First, compare these on each vehicle.

GVWR, that's the gross vehicle weight rating, the most the vehicle is rated to carry by the factory.

GAWR of the rear axle, that's the most weight the rear axle is supposed to carry.

GCWR, that is the most that vehicle is rated for, truck and trailer together.

Now, you must also know the actual vehicle weight of the model you are looking at. This should include full fuel (tank gallons times 6.9 lbs per gallon), plus you and your passengers, and allow for some goodies. That is your total actual vehicle weight.

And the actaul rear axle weight of it. This also should include full fuel and at least half of the above weight (short of being able to take a truck for a spin and weight it with everything in it). That is your total actual axle weight.

1) Take the GAWR and subtract the total actual rear axle weight.

2) Take the GVWR and subtract the total actual vehicle weight.

3) The lesser of 1) and 2) is the maximum allowed (rated) pin weight.

4) Take the total actual vehicle weight and add the dry trailer weight and subtract from the GCVW. You should have some room to spare. That is 'how much stuff' you can put in the trailer (as long as it is still less than the GVW of the trailer).

Sound confusing?

It's really not if you go through them one at a time.

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